February in Zone 8
February in Zone 8 (last frost late february – late march, first frost mid november – mid december). There are 55 crops to sow, transplant, or harvest this month.
Quick answer · Updated October 2026
In February, Zone 8 gardeners can plant Tomatoes, Tomatillos, Broccoli, Cabbage, Basil, Marigolds, Pumpkins, and Watermelon. Zone 8's last frost is around Late February – late March and first frost around Mid November – mid December — the full task list below has exact timing for each crop.
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- Min Winter Temp
- 10 to 20 °F / -12 to -7 °C
- Last Spring Frost
- Late February – late March
- First Fall Frost
- Mid November – mid December
- Growing Season
- 225–270 days
- Annual Rainfall
- 20–65 in
Gardening in February in Zone 8
In Zone 8, February sits just ahead of the average last frost (Late February – late March). This is the critical indoor seed-starting window: warm-season crops need these weeks under lights to be transplant-ready the moment the soil warms.
The planting focus in Zone 8 this month is Tomatoes, Tomatillos, Broccoli, Cabbage, Basil, and Marigolds — see the task cards below for exactly how and when to sow each in your conditions.
About February in the garden
February brings the first hints of awakening in gardens. Seed starting picks up in cold zones; warm zones begin direct sowing and transplanting warm-season crops. Days are noticeably lengthening, driving early bulb and shrub growth.
Starting tomatoes, peppers, and eggplant indoors in cold zones (Zones 3–6); direct sowing cool-season crops in Zones 8–10; pruning roses; chitting potatoes.
- Season
- winter
- Temperature trend
- Still cold but temperatures begin to rise in most regions; first warm spells in the South.
- Daylight
- Daylight increasing noticeably; gaining about 2 minutes per day in most latitudes.
- Zone 8 last frost
- Late February – late March
- Zone 8 first frost
- Mid November – mid December
19
Sow indoors
23
Sow outdoors
13
Transplant
0
Harvest
1
Maintenance
🌱 Sow indoors
Start these indoors
Get a jump on the season under lights or on a sunny windowsill so transplants are ready when the weather warms.
Sow ¼ in deep in cell trays; keep at 70–75°F. Germinates in 7–10 days.
Sow ¼ in deep at 70°F; treat like tomatoes.
Sow ¼ in deep; ready to transplant in 4–6 weeks at 4–5 in tall.
Sow ¼ in deep; harden off well before setting out.
Surface-sow under lights at 70°F; very frost-tender.
Sow ¼ in deep; quick and reliable from seed.
Sow 1 in deep. Germinates in 7–10 days in warm soil.
Sow 1 in deep. Germinates in 5–10 days in warm soil.
Sow ¼–½ in deep. Germinates in 5–10 days.
Sow 1/4–1/2 in deep. Germinates in 4–7 days.
Sow Surface-sow only — seeds need light to germinate. Germinates in 7–14 days.
Sow ¼–½ in deep. Germinates in 7–14 days.
Sow ½ in deep. Germinates in 7–14 days.
Sow ¼ in deep. Germinates in 5–14 days.
Sow 1/4 in deep. Germinates in 7–14 days.
Sow ¼–½ in deep. Germinates in 4–7 days.
Sow Surface sow — seeds need light; press gently without covering. Germinates in 7–14 days at 70–75°f.
Sow 1½–2 in deep. Germinates in 7–14 days.
Sow Surface-sow; needs light to germinate — press seed gently into moist soil without covering. Germinates in 7–14 days at 55–70°f.
🌿 Sow outdoors
Sow these directly outdoors
Soil and weather are right to sow these straight into the garden where they will grow.
Sow 1 in deep, 2 in apart as soon as soil is workable; trellis tall types.
Surface-sow and barely cover; succession-sow every 2 weeks for a steady supply.
Sow ½ in deep in cold soil; bolts fast once days lengthen and warm.
Sow ½ in deep, thin to 1 in. Ready in just 3–4 weeks — great for kids and impatient gardeners.
Sow ¼ in deep in loose, stone-free soil; keep surface moist until sprouts appear (2–3 weeks).
Sow ½ in deep; each "seed" is a cluster, so thin to 3 in. Eat the thinnings as greens.
Sow ¼ in deep or transplant; extremely cold-hardy.
Sow ½ in deep; succession-sow — it bolts quickly in heat.
Soak seed, sow 1 in deep in cool soil, and give them something to climb.
Direct-sow ¼–½ in deep, spacing 2–4 in apart.
Direct-sow ¼ in; transplant into deep holes, spacing 6 in apart.
Direct-sow ¼ in deep, spacing 4–6 in apart.
Direct-sow ¼–½ in deep, spacing 6 in apart.
Direct-sow ½ in deep, spacing 3–4 in apart.
Direct-sow ¼ in deep, spacing 6–12 in apart.
Direct-sow 1/4–1/2 in deep, spacing 4–6 in apart (baby) or 10–12 in (full-size).
Direct-sow ¼ in deep, spacing 8–12 in apart.
Direct-sow Surface-sow only — seeds need light to germinate, spacing 6–8 in apart.
Direct-sow ¼ in deep, spacing 8–12 in apart.
Direct-sow 1/4 in deep, spacing 6–12 in apart.
Direct-sow ¼–½ in deep, spacing 4–6 in (baby leaf) to 12 in (full-size heads).
Direct-sow Nick or soak seed for 24 hours before sowing to break the hard coat; sow ¼–½ in deep, spacing 18–24 in apart.
Direct-sow Surface-sow; needs light to germinate — press seed gently into moist soil without covering, spacing 6–8 in apart.
🪴 Transplant
Transplant these into the garden
Move hardened-off seedlings into their final beds.
Transplant while still cool; space 18 in apart. Heat ruins the heads.
Transplant 12–18 in apart into firm soil while weather is still cool.
Set out pencil-thick seedlings (or sets) 4 in apart as soon as soil is workable.
Set out 18–24 in apart, in full sun (6+ hours).
Set out 6 in apart, in full sun (6+ hours).
Set out 4–6 in apart (baby) or 10–12 in (full-size), in full sun to part shade (4–6+ hours).
Set out 6–12 in apart, in full sun to part shade (6 hours; some afternoon shade in heat).
Set out 6–8 in apart, in full sun to part shade (4–6 hours).
Set out 8–12 in apart, in full sun (6+ hours); tolerates light shade.
Set out 4–6 in (baby leaf) to 12 in (full-size heads), in full sun to part shade (4–6+ hours).
Set out 18–24 in apart, in part shade to full sun; thrives in dappled light and tolerates deeper shade better than almost any other tall flower.
Set out 4–6 in apart, in rows 18–24 in wide, in full sun to partial shade.
Set out 6–8 in apart, in full sun to partial shade; afternoon shade in hot climates extends the bloom season.
🛠️ Maintenance
Harden off and prep beds
Zone 8's last frost lands around now (Late February – late March).
📌 Harden off indoor seedlings over 7–10 days, work compost into beds, and keep frost cloth handy for surprise late freezes.
When to plant this month's crops in Zone 8
Full planting calendars — start indoors, transplant, and harvest timing — for the crops you're planting in February.
General February tasks
These apply broadly regardless of zone — a useful checklist alongside the zone-specific tasks above.
- ✓Start tomatoes, peppers, and eggplant indoors 8–10 weeks before last frost (cold zones)
- ✓Direct sow cool-season crops outdoors in Zones 8–10
- ✓Prune roses once forsythia begins to bloom (traditional timing cue)
- ✓Apply late dormant oil sprays before buds break on fruit trees
- ✓Begin chitting (sprouting) seed potatoes indoors
- ✓Fertilize spring-blooming bulbs as they emerge
- ✓Direct sow sweet peas outdoors in mild climates
- ✓Transplant bare-root trees and shrubs while dormant
⚠ Watch-outs for February
- ⚠Late hard freezes are common — don't rush transplanting in cold zones
- ⚠Seedlings started indoors need supplemental light (12–16 hrs) to avoid stretching
- ⚠Wet February soils compact easily; wait for soil to dry before working
- ⚠Fruit trees breaking dormancy early are vulnerable to late frost — have covers ready
February in Zone 8: common questions
What can I plant in February in Zone 8?＋
In February, Zone 8 gardeners can sow or transplant Tomatoes, Tomatillos, Broccoli, Cabbage, Basil, Marigolds, Pumpkins, and Watermelon. February in Zone 8 (last frost late february – late march, first frost mid november – mid december). There are 55 crops to sow, transplant, or harvest this month.
When is the last and first frost in Zone 8?＋
Zone 8 typically has its last spring frost around Late February – late March and its first fall frost around Mid November – mid December, giving a growing season of roughly 225–270 days. Always check a local frost-date source, since microclimates vary.
What garden jobs matter most in February in Zone 8?＋
Focus on start tomatoes, peppers, and eggplant indoors 8–10 weeks before last frost (cold zones), direct sow cool-season crops outdoors in zones 8–10, prune roses once forsythia begins to bloom (traditional timing cue). Watch out for late hard freezes are common — don't rush transplanting in cold zones.